Housing:

All of my animals are housed in 48x24x18/24 handcrafted PVC enclosures.  PVC holds heat and humidity very well, making it an excellent material option.  We do not use red or black lights, especially at night as they can interfere with a dragons sleep and overall health.  Do not use a heat rock or electric heating pad.

Heating and Lighting:

Bearded dragons will need both UVB and heat, both are crucial to the health of your animal.  You will need both a linear style UVB bulb and fixture along with an appropriate basking bulb.  The basking bulb wattage will depend solely on size enclosure as well as cage material.  Currently I am using a 40-75 watt basking bulb in all of my enclosures and this has been sufficient.  Bearded dragons need a 12 hour day/night cycle, my lights and heat come on at 7a and go off at 7p.  Of course you can adjust as needed to fit your lifestyle.  Bearded dragons are native to the desert, they need a basking temperature of 95-110 degrees.  In addition, they need a hot side temperature in the 90's and a temperature of 75-80 on the cool side.

Diet:

All of my bearded dragons eat a variety of live feeders and leafy greens.  Their feeders consist of black soldier fly larvae, dubia roaches, mealworms, and superworms.  Their leafy greens consist of homegrown mustard greens, spring mix, collard greens, and arugula.  All bugs are dusted in a calcium plus d3 powder and dusted with a multivitamin once or twice a week as well.   Expect to feed babies bugs 2-3 times a day as well as a daily salad.  Adult dragons only need bugs 2-3 times a week and greens can be fed daily. I feed leafy greens 1-2 hours after lights on and feeder bugs about an hour after that.

Substrate:

All of my young dragons, sub-adults, and adults are on a layer of play sand.  This loose substrate option allows them the opportunity to explore, dig and the like.  It is important to note, if choosing a loose substrate option, your husbandry MUST be dialed in.  Another good flooring option is slate, tile, and brick.  I have also found that a black rubber mat also works well if you prefer something other than loose substrate.  

Handling:

Please let your new dragon acclimate and adjust to its new home for the first few days. It can be stressful to relocate so letting them relax in their enclosure can help with any stress. If your dragon is eating well and active, you can feel free to start enjoying your new animal. The more you handle your dragon the friendlier and more well behaved it will become. 

Baths:

We give our babies baths 3 times a week. We fill the tub/sink/bath with enough lukewarm warm water to reach their bellies. This is a good time for them to hydrate. We give our adults baths 1-2 times a week. Dragons get the majority of the water they need through their food. The bath is also an extra opportunity to hydrate. It’s also always a good idea to offer a bath while a dragon is going through shed.